We had planned the entire day’s activities down to a tee! In the day, we would explore the sights along the Chao Phraya River. At night, we would take a dinner cruise whilst admiring the city lights! Doesn’t that sound wonderful?
The bustling river runs through Bangkok and several other cities, with river taxis providing an important mode of transport for both locals and tourists alike. After travelling around on taxis and skytrains for the past days, it was refreshing to be commuting on boats for a change :)
A few types of boats ply the river. This “airy” and open kind is probably the cheapest. A boat ride from one bank of the river to the other costs just 3 baht!
With very few seats on board, people usually end up standing around and holding on to the hand rails. It took us to our first destination of the day: Siriraj Hospital, the oldest hospital in Thailand.
If you’re wondering why the heck we’re visiting an old hospital on our vacation, this particular hospital houses six small museums. The one we’re looking for in particular is the forensic museum that showcases various states of human death with actual… Specimens. As far as curiosity goes, we were pretty psyched up about visiting the museum.
(For obvious reasons, photography isn’t allowed here. I did manage to sneak a few photos with the intention of displaying them on this blog. Ultimately, I’ve decided not to. It makes me feel too uncomfortable.)
The exhibition area wasn’t huge. Picture a large room with fluorescent lighting, row after row of glass cabinets with jars of preserved body parts and organs, and that very heavy and gloomy hospital atmosphere. The entrance corridor is lined with photos of people that died from hangings, being mashed in machinery, cut wrists, etc. It was all very depressing.
The saddest sight, though, has got to be the jars of dead babies and fetuses, including some very well-developed ones. One particular jar had an infant that died from drowning. We noticed that someone had left a couple of sweets by its side.
There is also an entire section dedicated to executed criminals (rapist murderers and the likes) with their mummified corpses.
Obviously, the experience wasn’t a pleasant one, but I can’t deny that it was an eyeopener. For those of you that are curious to see exactly what the exhibits look like, here’s a 360 degree view within the exhibition.
Siriraj Hospital
2 Prannok Road
Bangkoknoi
Bangkok 10700
Thailand
Tel: +66 2419 7000 (ext. 6363/6440)
www.si.mahidol.ac.th
Nearest pier: Wang Lang
Opening hours: 9am – 4pm (Closed on Sundays)
Admission: 40 baht
You would think that a visit like that would take the appetite out of anyone. But my stomach was rumbling after that. Street hawkers like this were aplenty, but it was at a cosy little restaurant where we had our meal.
A colourful plate of chicken pasta!
I’m a big fan of Thai green curry, although the only version I’ve had was from Lerk Thai. I thought the green curry in Thailand would probably taste different. It was actually very similar to Lerk Thai’s. I guess Lerk Thai does serve authentic Thai food!
Our next destination was the beautiful temple of Wat Arun. This time round, we had to take a different type of river taxi, the Chao Phraya express boat.
Look how crowded it is! The boat is much bigger than the one before and has more seats too.
Even on a boat with passengers almost smashed together, there was someone going around to inspect everyone’s ticket.
From the boat, we saw the silhouette of Wat Arun.
And finally, we arrived at the Temple of Dawn!
The prangs are decorated with thousands of multicoloured porcelain pieces and must have looked magnificent in the temple’s heyday.
This was my second time to the temple. I made my first visit in 2005, though my memories of it are fuzzy at best.
What I do remember vividly are the very steep and scary steps leading up the 80-meter-tall main prang. Not only are the steps narrow, with a width of less than 20 centimeters, each one is easily a foot tall! Aren’t people shorter in the past? They must have had found those steps even more challenging!
Just watch these people struggling up the stairs! I, for one, was terrified! A very narrow landing separates the two flights of stairs. So if anyone was unfortunate enough to trip over, he would probably tumble all the way down!
After braving those killer steps, we reached the balcony where we got a panoramic view of the Chao Phraya River and the surrounding sights. Can you spot the Grand Palace in the distance?
Well, that’s it for the Temple of Dawn!
34 Arun Amarin Road
Kwang Wat Arun, Khet
Bangkok Yai
Bangkok 10320
Thailand
www.watarun.org
Nearest pier: Tha Tien
Opening hours: 7:30am – 5:30pm daily
Admission: 50 baht
We made our way to the river once more to pamper ourselves with a sumptuous dinner on a cruise. That seems a perfect way to end the day, does it not?
One advantage of cruising along the river is that you get to see many landmarks and bridges, such as the rama VIII bridge. This is a beautiful single tower asymmetrical cable-stayed bridge, easily my most favourite bridge at the Chao Phraya River.
And that’s the Grand Palace.
Of the many dinner cruises available, most are buffets that typically cost a bomb. We picked riverside Bangkok as they offer Thai/chinese ala carte dishes at very reasonable prices.
The cruise is a baby blue double-decker, possibly the biggest passenger boat on the river. It sails off at 8pm, making a trip up and down the river before disembarking at 10:30. That gives diners a nice 2.5 hours on board.
(and no, I did not digitally change the colour. The sky was really that gorgeous shade of pink!)
A colourful balloon arch welcomes people on board. At times the staff would offer to take pictures of passengers standing underneath those balloons.
Both indoor and alfresco dining are available. Seats for the alfresco area are the first to run out so it’s better to make your reservations fast! We neglected to make advance reservations and sat indoors instead.
A live band entertains the diners on the stage, which transforms into a disco dance floor during the later part of the night.
Our first chang beer!
For starters, we ordered my favourite chicken satay. The gravy is quite similar to the satay peanut gravy in Singapore.
What’s different is that slices of toasted bread are served instead of the lontong (rice cakes) that we are familiar with.
A surprise find on the extensive menu was the roasted duck in coffee sauce. It reminds me of the delicious coffee pork ribs at Tung Lok zhou’s kitchen. Sure enough, there’s the same delicious coffee aroma, although I would have enjoyed it better if it was chicken.
I thought the shrimp in coconut cream would be something like the one at mustard, where the prawns are served in a whole coconut. (coconuts are all over Bangkok!) I felt a tinge of disappointment when it came in a small bowl. Still, the shrimp tasted great – sweet and creamy with a touch of spice. Yum.
The fried pork ribs were dry and stiff – not good. It convinced me that ribs are never meant to be fried.
But anyhow, the main cool thing about being on a dinner cruise is that you get an ever-changing scenic view. You can stand by the railing and feel the breeze in your hair. You can even fly like jack and rose if you wish.
There are easily a dozen bridges stretching across the river banks, and each time the cruise passed underneath one, all on board would erupt in cheers just for the heck of it :)
Bangkok is not exactly a dense skyscraper city. You don’t really get to see the grandeur of a brightly lit skyline unlike other urban cities.
We did spot the golden dome of the state tower. It felt surreal to see it from so far away when we were just there the night before, having a couple of drinks at Sirocco the rooftop bar.
That’s the Temple of Dawn again. It looks magnificent even at night.
195 Ratchawithi Road
Bangkok 10700
Thailand
Tel: +66 2883 1588
Nearest pier: Krung Thon Bridge
Dinner hours: 8pm – 10:30pm
Admission: 120 baht
Once again, this was a thoroughly enjoyable and rewarding day. All the places we visited are on the West bank of the river. There was a mild scare when none of the taxis we flagged down were willing to take us back to our hotel in the main land of Bangkok and it was getting pretty late by then. But eventually one did agree. Phew!
Feb 4, 2009
4
woah. its a very thrilling experience to visit the forensic museum. i cant imagine me seeing human organs and fetuses..
and i also didnt know that dinner cruises have ala carte type.
veron trip never fails to surprise me..
Feb 4, 2009
3472
Hehe did you get to visit the BodyWorlds exhibition when it came to Singapore some years back? It showcases human corpses too, albeit in a more artful way. The bodies have been plastinated and hardly look like corpses anymore. The forensic museum is quite different, in the sense that the bodies look more “real”.
Yeah most of the dinner cruises were buffet style and this was the only one we found offering ala carte dishes. The waiters would go around taking orders and the cooks would prepare the food somewhere at the back of the ship.
Feb 4, 2009
6
gosh this is a great entry. makes me regret not thorougly planning my itinerary when i visited bangkok last year. Im coming back to check ur entries if i do make another trip to bangkok! thanks for the tips :P
Feb 4, 2009
3472
No worries. It took my fourth trip before I got to do some of the cool things mentioned. And I know I’m still missing out on many others!
Feb 5, 2009
4
Well it does both sound and look beautiful. Wish I was there!
Feb 5, 2009
3472
You must be referring to Wat Arun! Yes, it’s certainly one of the most beautiful temples I have seen in Thailand. Must have looked even more magnificent back in the 19th century when it was first built.
Feb 5, 2009
72
whoa! Another culinary delightful adventure – Ijust spent 9 days in Thailand but still missed out on the Riverside dinner buffet. How did you manage to find out about it?
I was at this cool restaurant on the river near Rama V bridge called Pha Na Korn. It was still quite cold in Thailand as the locals were wrapped up in jackets and cardigans.
Respect to you for checking out the forensic museum, do they have one in Singapore? Veron the CSI..
I visit Wat Arun in 2004, and like your observations, it hasn’t changed much since. Its a historical temple, so common sense says they preserve it as much as possible. Yep, those river taxis at 3Baht can’t be beaten! The tourists “farang” usually get ripped off on the private long-tail boats that charge 500 Baht!
Feb 6, 2009
3472
We did some research before going on the trip. Only when we chanced upon some Thai website did we realise that there are dinner cruises on the Chao Phraya river! And I bet Riverside Bangkok is the cheapest deal you can get.
Haha I doubt there would ever be a forensic museum in Singapore. Where would they get the bodies?
Nov 2, 2009
1
Hi, nice site and tips u have shared. I am thinking about the river cruise. According to you. ala carte would be good but we do need to pay 120 baht for the admission. Do share with me more details on the river cruise dinner. thanks
Nov 3, 2009
3472
Unless things have changed, you would be asked to pay the admission fee.
Feb 18, 2009
2
hey,what is the name for the cruise? i would like to board it coz it’s not tat costly ! :D
so i just get to the riverside bangkok and i shud b able to see the blue double decker??
thanks !
Feb 22, 2009
1
Wow…Lovely visit, indeed. Will gonna visit Bangkok end of this month ^^
Just would like to know, how much did it cost ya for the dinner during the cruise? Is it a one lump sum cost or according to what you’d ordered? If I choose not to have dinner, could I still enjoy the cruise?
Thanks.
Cheers,
Max
Feb 24, 2009
3472
The dinner is ala carte style so you pay only for what you order. We specifically chose this cruise because we wanted to avoid the expensive buffet. Though it’s not stated explicitly, I’m quite sure you can also enjoy the cruise without having the food, since they make you pay a fixed “admission” price to get on board. It’s pretty cheap.
Feb 24, 2009
2
Hi Veron,
Where does the Riverside night cruise stop cos I need to get back to Sukhumvit at night.
How much did you spent for the food ala carte? I have my parents & sis along.
Thanks for your guide in advance.
sooshing
I be there this 7-10 Mar and I hope no demonstration by the Red party !
Feb 24, 2009
3472
The cruise makes a round trip back to Riverside Bangkok, which is on the west bank of the Chao Phraya (further up north on the map of Bangkok). I can’t remember exactly how much we spent, but it was probably in the region of 1000 baht for two persons. What I do remember is that it was very affordable, considering the length of time you get to cruise along the river.
Feb 26, 2009
1
great photos taken! :)
May 13, 2009
9
for Bangkok skyline
http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=18362
May 13, 2009
9
This year 2009, Bangkok city
http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=859602
May 18, 2009
3472
Those are some really *really* excellent photos. They give a far better depiction of Bangkok life than any of my blog posts ever could!
Jun 7, 2009
1
i definitely love your days in Bangkok. I’m planning one for 2 weeks later, there are so many things to do & places to go but with so limited time.
Anyway your site really helps a lot ^_^
Jun 11, 2009
3472
Always happy to hear that :) Aside from blogging about the famous must-see sights, I do try to showcase the less-known places too, especially if they are those that people may not know about.
Hope you enjoy your trip, as I’m sure you will :)
Jul 31, 2009
3
hi there, your site is so nice to read, im browsing bangkok trips and stumbled on your blog.
would want to know if you happen to book tour package and thru which website,
would appreciate if you can let me know as im quite hesitant to just try booking online and not sure whether the site can be trusted or not
thanks
yna
Aug 1, 2009
3472
Hi Yna,
Thanks for dropping by! I tend to book my air tickets and accommodation separately.
For air tickets, I use Zuji. They have provided me with lower rates for non-budget airlines.
As for accommodation in Bangkok, my favourite website to use is Agoda.
So far, all the bookings I’ve made online are 100% successful. Of course, i only use the bigger and more popularly-used websites. Hope this helps!
Aug 4, 2009
3
what sites do you use to book the tour, i just called my hotel and they got an in house tour company, however, this company offers, high rates compared to market rates.
would you let me know the website you used in booking the tours. i want to book on line…
thanks again veron
Oct 28, 2009
1
Hi there,
Your blog is so informative! We are planning on going to Bangkok this month end. I have been wanting to do the dinner cruise, but I am not sure if it is agood idea as I have 2 young children(ages 5 and 7). Also we are vegetarians, do you think the buffet will do justice to us? Kindly let me know what you think!
Nov 15, 2013
1
Ur article here posted since 2010 and I’m reading in 2013. I dont know if things still the same so would you mind me asking some q? It amazes me to read the article here about the dinner cruise. I was in that cruise like 10 y ago, back in 2002. And I still remember how fascinating it was. Best experience. Anyway, I was there last time with thai friends so they helped me through all of this. But now I’m planning to go there again by myself so I dont know how to contact the hotel to book or make reservation for the dinner cruise. Do you mind telling me how? Like email or contact. anything.
Thank you
Nov 18, 2013
3472
I remember we were at the hotel like an hour before the dinner cruise started, and made reservations for two right there and then. If you are going there alone, I imagine they should be able to slot you in easily, even if it’s at the last minute.